How to Install a Laminate Floating Floor
Laying a floating floor
Laying Out the Flooring.
Preparation is key; gauging and laying out the space to be floored
is an all important element that should be
given the utmost attention. It's devastating to run out of material
mid-job or to find that the layout was done hastily and the result
is an unsightly, uneven joint pattern. Take the few extra minutes to
prep and lay out properly, and it will save you a tremendous amount
of time in repair work. - may seem like a
daunting task, but with some basic knowledge and small array of
tools, the average homeowner can install a floating floor in a
relatively short amount of time. It is important to assess your
flooring needs before engaging in any kind of flooring remodel, and
this assessment should include the amount of foot traffic the
intended area will incur. In this instance, we assume the area sees
moderate usage and a floating floor is appropriate.
When measuring for a layout, be sure to take
into consideration cut outs and unevenness of a room. For
example, in a 10"x10" room with a 2"x2" cut out, the area of the
floor surface is 96 sq. ft. Be careful not to neglect closet spaces,
though, as they will need to be covered as well. When sourcing
materials, it is generally good practice to buy a 20 percent overage
on all materials - meaning if you need 100 sq. ft., buy 120 sq. ft.
This is done to insure that there is plenty of material in case of
mid-work mishaps, or any damaged or discolored pieces. Additionally,
it is a good idea to keep several pieces after the job is completed,
in case anything should happen down the road that would require a
repair of the floor. In some cases, a manufacturer might discontinue
a type or color of floating floor, leaving its prior customers
scrambling to find replacement pieces during a repair.
Preparing the
Subfloor. First decide the substrate, or
subfloor, you intend to use. The beauty
of a floating floor is in its adaptability. A floating floor can be
placed over nearly any substrate, including concrete, wood
subfloor, or existing flooring. The
floating panels can mask some irregularities in the substrate, such
as embossing in vinyl flooring, but any major dips, dents, or lumps
should be eliminated before installing the panels. If concrete is to
be used, verify the dryness year round, and if unsure, apply a
concrete sealer prior to the installation.
To test for humidity if you don't have a moisture meter available,
tape a 2'x 2' section of clear plastic to the concrete slab, forming
an airtight seal. If condensation or discoloration appears on
plastic after 24-48 hours, the moisture content is likely too high
for most wood products. As an added precaution, you can lay down
plastic sheathing as a vapor barrier between the slab and the
flooring.
Installation. With your
flooring area properly laid out and prepared, it’s time for fitting
your floating floor. It's important to remember to leave a gap of
5/16” from the wall. Use wood or plastic spacers to maintain the
expansion space until the installation is complete. This expansion
space is integral to proper installation, as it insures that if the
floor should swell at all - as wood is known to do when introduced
to moisture - there will not be any incidents of crowding or
misalignment on the floors overall surface area.
The best way to lay your laminate was determined in the layout, typically the
furthest point from a doorway, begin to install your floor. Start
the first row with groove side against the wall and with a half
panel in order to facilitate a stagger effect of end joints row to
row. Apply conservative amounts of wood glue lightly on the tongue
joints, and insert into the groove of the subsequent courses. Gently
tap panels into place with a white rubber mallet to attain an even,
smooth joint.
When installing over a large area, a 3/8" expansion joint should
also be provided every 30-40 linear feet. Intermediary expansion
joints may be filled with expansive joint sealant in order to mask
their appearance. Joints between boards may be sealed with expansive
joint sealant. Surfaces must be clean and dry prior to application
of the sealant.
Should a situation arise where a cut needs to be made to accommodate
a pipe or other round obtrusion, you may need to drill. Make sure
that the hole is about 3/8" larger than the diameter of the pipe.
Cut off the area behind the pipes, trim the holes and glue again. It
is advisable to cover the pipes with sleeves and fill the expansion
space around the penetration with expansive joint sealant. It is
also recommended that a sealant be used around such areas as
bathroom fixtures and kitchen appliances in order to eliminate
potential seepage.
Finishing Up. To finish
up the installation of your floor, saw the last board to the
appropriate width, gluing both the groove and the tongue. When the
glue is hardened, remove all wedges. The last few steps are to
reinstall the baseboards, and install any transition pieces or
thresholds. Before allowing anyone to walk on your handy work, be
sure to allow at least 24 hours for glued joints to dry and to let
the floor settle. Then, sweep the floor to remove any debris left
over from the installation process, and inspect all the joints for
evenness.
Congratulations - you have completed the installation process! Now,
step back and admire your hard work. The end result should be a
beautiful floor with all joints fitting together with no gaps.
This is sure to add style and grace to your décor.